A whining steering is common in Subaru Legacy cars

Hi Baraza,

Thanks for the advice you give us on motoring. It goes a long way in helping us be more mech savvy than the layman whose wallet is at the mercy of his mechanic.

Mine is a steering issue. I have a Subaru Legacy BP5 2.0l turbo that makes a whining noise when steering in either direction, though still easy to steer. The noise has been getting worse in the past few monthsand is worst when the car has been sitting for at least five hours.

Initially, I thought it was more or less a cold power steering pump issue but it seems to be more serious now. Would this require replacement of the PS pump, or does the problem lie in the replacement of the hose alone. 

Secondly, I have hit 100,000-plus mileage and am thinking of getting a new timing kit. What improvements in engine performance should I expect, apart from increased life expectancy.

Bob 

Hi,

The whiny steering is a problem endemic to a lot of Subaru Legacy cars, up to and including, but not limited to mine. Apparently the issue arises when the O-ring on the power steering pump gets worn out and starts admitting air into the system, hence the noise.

It is particularly noticeable when it is cold but clears up when the weather gets warmer. You might need a new O-ring, but first have a mechanic take a look to confirm the worst before you go shopping.

If the worst case scenario comes to you having to replace the entire system (unlikely), the last time I checked, the pump was retailing at something in the region of Sh32,000 in the informal market.

A new timing kit will not do much beyond keeping you safe from the mechanical destruction that will occur once the belt lets go on an interference engine and valves meet pistons in a violent clash that sounds not unlike someone throwing gravel into a posho mill.

***

Hello JM

While looking for a reasonably priced SUV with great power, I got a Subaru Forester SG5 tiptronic transmission, but the power wasn’t enough for me, so I shifted to the turbo-charged SG5 option.

I am now enjoying the power I wanted, but still want more power. Because of this, I have changed my turbo from stock to VF22, installed the STi intercooler with the STi scoop, and finally did a 3-inch exhaust decut.

My idea was to do mapping but when I approached my mechanic, he told me that it is not possible to map unless I change the manifold and cable drive.

My main aim is to end up with the antilag pops but again, most of my friends say, “Weka antilag kama uko na pesa ya kununua engine ingine (Get antilag if you have the money to buy a new engine).” What’s your take on this? Should I proceed?

Mash

Hi Mash,

It’s not just power you were after, is it? From your description, you seem to know a thing or two about the aftermarket modifications scene, which means you should know that a map will give you the power jump you were seeking to go with the hardware upgrades.

Before we discuss antilag, here is a small talk. What is the end game here? Do you ultimately just want more power (and performance) or are you also enjoying the fun of the build?

If it is the latter, then as you were... you are on the right path. Take one step at a time and savour the difference at each stage. It will also help you as a driver adapt to the changes as you go along; you don’t want any nasty surprises from your own car, do you now?

And by all means go and get that map! I know a few people who can do it for you, at a fee of course. You don’t necessarily need a manifold or cable drive changed, whatever that is.

If all you want is a power hike from “x” horsepowers to “x + y” horsepowers, then do the maths first before committing. Sum up the cost of the base vehicle (the SG5), plus the mods (hardware), plus the mapping, plus the installation costs (a.k.a labour), and juxtapose this with the end result of power and performance, keeping in mind that more often than not, building a rod is a hit-and-miss affair, so factor in the time aspect as well.

Take this total and compare it to the cost of a stock (or lightly modified) SG9 and its own power outputs and performance levels. Is the modification worth it, or is it more sensible to just buy the STi Fozzie outright and save yourself a headache?

Now, the antilag. Do you really need it? It’s only useful in dedicated race applications – rallying in particular. In any other place its usefulness is nothing that cannot be compensated for by a little extra skill and thought. I’m referring to amateur (or street) racing, just in case you were wondering.

I dislike antilag for the noise. As an engineering concept, it is a textbook example of a balancing act because what you gain in performance stats, you lose in engine life.

Yes, your friends are right, antilag will kill your engine in short order. It is a kamikaze approach to problem-solving, which is why it is only useful to racing teams which have both the pressing need and the unlimited wherewithal to go through an engine per race.

For you and your daily driver, keep repulsing pedestrians and scaring old people with the loud reports from your tailpipe, but you’ll pay for it soon enough.

****

Dear Baraza,

Thank you for your continued support to the motoring public.

I own a Subaru Forester 200cc which I bought late last year. However, I have realised that when I switch it on in the morning, the rev counter starts very low (I feels as if the car will stall), then rapidly goes high before stabilising as the engine warms up.

Is there a way that these sporadic movements can be corrected? Does it have something to do with the thermostat as one mechanic recently suggested? 

Alfred N. Gichu

Hello Gichu,

Yes, this has something to do with not just the thermostat in particular, but the engine temperature in general. The rpm spike is because the engine is trying to warm up as fast as it can to reach optimum operating temperature before the revolutions settle down at their normal idling range (usually around 800 rpm).

I’m not sure why there is that lull before the surge on startup; it might have something to do with air locks in the fuel lines, or an intermittent fuel pump, or fuel pressure regulator. Find out what is causing the initial reluctance to rev and solve it.

As for the surge, that is normal. Also, don’t remove the thermostat. The cold season is here, and you will probably want your engine to warm up as fast as it can on a cold start without it having to battle an always-on cooling system as well.

****
Hi Baraza,

I appreciate your column very much; it is very informative.

I own a Hilux mini truck 2002 model that stocks a 2KD-FTV engine. Since mid last year I have noted the following changes: loss of power, a major rise in consumption, failure to ignite even after cranking (but ignites on jump starting), a decline in oil levels every week, emission of a lot of black smoke, and turbo blowing oil into the engine. 

Since then I have been changing oil every 1000kms. I have changed the timing belt and head gasket but I haven’t noticed any change. My mechanics say the engine needs a complete overhaul but before I do the overhaul, I need your advice on the areas I should check on, apart from the piston rings and bearings.

Gatch

Hello Gatch,

Yeah, yours sounds like an engine on the throes of death. The power loss and increase in consumption could be mutually causative (one causes the other), which in turn might or might not be related to the black smoke.

The black smoke and the power loss/bad economy could be caused by a clogged air filter, a problem with the injectors or weak compression.

It might be weak compression because you say that the turbo is blowing oil into the engine. This means the turbo needs reassembly, or even replacement (one of the seals and/or attendant piping might be gone), and it explains all the symptoms. Power loss (due to lack of boost) causes high consumption.

The injectors deliver fuel based on normal boost levels but there being no boost means the air-fuel ratios (AFRs) are all wrong and the car runs rich, hence the black smoke. The oil consumption seems to also originate from the turbo, from your description.

The hard start could also be symptomatic of low compression or injectors badly in need of a tune-up/cleaning; possibly from all the oil going into cylinders.

You now know where to look. Start with the turbo, do a compression test and check the injectors.

***

Hi Baraza,

I’m very grateful for your valuable responses and articles on motoring issues.

Now, I have noticed that the Toyota Landcruiser 200 petrol models are more popular than the diesel variants, unlike in the case of Land Cruiser 100. I came across some scanty information to the effect that Land Cruiser 200 diesel injector nozzles are very sensitive to any form of impurities in the diesel. 

This is the same engine in HZJ 79 mostly sold in Australia, I guess. Is it true? Is this the reason why more people prefer the petrol version?

Secondly, you always advise readers that, to save fuel, they should maintain low revs but I have realised there are some vehicles like the Toyota NZE, Probox and Sienta have high revs naturally, which makes it difficult to maintain revs below 2000 rpm.

Tell us more about the revs concept and how it affects fuel consumption.

Ken

Hello Kenneth, and thanks for bringing up what is a very interesting topic for an external observer.

I, too, have noticed that a lot of imported 200 Series come with petrol engines: both the earlier 4.7 (2UZ) V8 and the newer 4.6 (1UR) V8. Preferences for this engine might stem from a variety of intrinsic engineering reasons: the petrol V8s are smoother and more powerful compared to the 4.5 litre 1VD diesel turbo.

Plus there is a general phobia for diesel engines and turbos (or combinations thereof) in the general population. Back when I used to banter with The Paji, he said he disliked diesel Landcruisers because they are slow, have annoyingly short service intervals and diesel stinks, quite literally.

However, there is such an enterprise as Toyota Kenya, and they say the exact opposite of what importers believe. They will not sell a petrol-powered 200 Series under any circumstances, and it takes some effort convincing them to service or maintain one. Given that they are the authority in all matters Toyota, you would do well to pay attention to them.

Further proof of this franchise’s commitment to derv was at the launch of the VDJ202 — the facelifted Landcruiser — last year. You might notice the platform code starts with a “VD-” which is the engine code for the 4.5 litre turbodiesel V8.

Nobody mentioned petrol at any point that evening. The URJ202 (the 4.6 litre petrol car) is only available through import, and the closest you can get Toyota Kenya to deal with an import is via its kissing cousin, Toyotsu Automart in Nairobi’s South C estate.

So, what gives?

Well, the Toyota Kenya representative said that the 1UR engine has an array of sensors that they are not too excited about fiddling with, and the kind of mistreatment these cars get (especially this year, on the campaign trail, they are likely to undergo a lot of abuse) almost guarantees that they will be brought in for extensive diagnosis and repairs.

Toyota Kenya doesn’t want that kind of cred on their rap sheet. The VD engine is more robust, more rugged and easier to work on (turbos notwithstanding), which is why it is extremely popular in Australia where they take their SUVs very seriously, and where they have managed to shoehorn that same diesel V8 into the engine bay of a 70 Series and created a new sub-model for Toyota’s gnarliest off-roader, called the VDJ79 and not HZJ79 as you erroneously stated above (I repeat: the first two letters represent the engine code; the HZ engine is from many years ago when the Earth was young).

That might also explain why so many imports are petrol-powered; maybe the Australians don’t want them* as well and are throwing them at us.

(*Comment is reserved on the current ban on Australian imports until further notice)