Kakamega’s age-old cultural centre set for major facelift

When you mention Khayega Market, the first thing that comes to mind for most people who know the centre on the Kisumu-Kakamega highway is bullfighting, thanks in no small part to Kakamega Senator Boni Khalwale.

Located about seven kilometres east of Kakamega Town, Khayega Market is a fast-growing urban centre, surrounded by schools and other institutions, including the famous Mukumu Girls’ and Mukumu Boys high schools, Mukumu Catholic Church, Sigalagala Technical Institute, Musingu High School and St Peter’s Seminary.

The town is also surrounded by a number of tourist attractions, including the famous 40-metre cultural and spiritual ancient crying stone of Ilesi, Kakamega Forest which boasts more than 400 species of flora and fauna, pottery items and River Okoha will also create employment, revenue collection, youth enterprises, women/ Uwezo loans from trade, factories to operate their business, improve security, electrification of the market.

Khayega, which is predominantly inhabited by the Isukha and Idakho sub-tribes of the Luhya, has a rich cultural history, and nothing brings out the competitive spirit of these two communities more than the age-old bull fighting.

And in a land that fanatically supports AFC Leopards, football is also a crowd puller, even if it just school or local leagues. There is a good football ground with a smooth surface, which is used by school and other teams.

The history of the ground dates back to the 1940s during the reign of Chief Jeremiah Sejero, who acquired it for social activities. Isukha land proper starts at Khayega Market, the centre of the Bisukha world. The market was originally known as Ikambi was Milimu. However, the name was changed to Khayega by Paramount Chief Sejero.

PASTURELAND

The market started at Ikuywa wa Malaya, where there was a large field that was used as pastureland by the surrounding communities, as well as for wrestling and bull-fighting. During such events, traders would bring merchandise to sell to the people. All these contributed to the centre’s growth.

Meanwhile, Milimu Amayitsa had been appointed Chief of Bisukha by Chief Nabongo Mumia after the First World War, and the provincial commissioner for Kavirondo decided that eucalyptus trees be planted at the site where the current chief’s office stands, which thereafter became a works camp.

Chief Amayista appointed Khayega Murula to supervise the tree planting, as well as the killing of moles that were destroying the young eucalyptus trees.

That is how the place earned the name Khayega’s camp (the Bisukha corrupted it to Ikambi Wa Khayega). The prominent Khayega businessman, Henry Malenya (now deceased), was the grandson of Khayega.

Khayega centre developed rapidly into a major commercial, social and political centre after the Second World War, becoming even more important after the end of the war. Many of the traditional buildings with thatched roofs were replaced with more modern ones made of bricks, and with corrugated iron roofs.

Visitors would come here to learn about Luhya cultural practices such us circumcision, isukuti dancing, bull-fighting and would even be given information on medicinal plants.

Notably, although Kakamega later developed and became the hub of what was known as Western Province before the advent of devolution, it never had any significance to Africans before independence because it was a White man’s fort, a place known for the humiliation and abuse for Africans.

According to Makatiani, once completed, the market will become another satellite town of Kakamega, and will increase revenue collection from Sh7.8 billion to 10 billion annually. Khayega with a population of over 40,000 people, is the county’s third largest revenue source after Kakamega Town and Mumias.

According Gatei Munika, a descendant of the Khayega family, Khayega market offered the Bisukha and Bidakho an opportunity for cultural self-expression, where they could also show off aspects of Western culture they had learnt from the White man.

“You know, even though Europeans taught our people a few things like dressing well (wearing clothes and shoes), they would not tolerate an African showing off in such attire,” he said.

Munika says that, as a result, the market became something of a fashion centre,especially on Sundays, which was also a major market day, where well-dressed people could even find themselves partners.

MAJOR FACELIFT

But the market, which has such a rich history, is to receive a major facelift, thanks to the efforts of Isukha South Member of County Assembly Herbert Sore Makatiani, who believes it is time to relocate it and make it more modern.

The 85-year old centre of the Abakakamega people of Ikolomani and Isukha was pulled down on the eve of November 1, 2014 to facilitate the relocation of the market to a more suitable location where it will attract more business and visitors, given that it has become extremely popular thanks to the the publicity given to bullfighting.

But despite Makatiani’s well-intentioned plans, some people are not happy. Tension was high at the centre during the ground breaking ceremony in May after traders demanded to be compensated them for “their plots”, forcing the organisers to relocate the function to the chief’s camp at the last minute.

The Kakamega County government started the long-awaited renovation amid fears that those opposed to the Sh80 million project would interfere with the establishement of structures that are expected to change the face a centre that is fast growing into a township.

Trouble has been brewing since the old market was pulled down — amid protests — to facilitate the relocation of the market. But traders who support the project are waiting expectantly for its completion so that they can continue doing business after the disruption.

Makatiani, to whom the market a pet project, is eagerly awaiting its completion because it will be a dream come true. During the groundbreaking ceremony, Makatiani, who was flanked by MCAs from Kakamega East, likened the project to the birth of a child.

“I have been pregnant for more than nine months and I’m now ready to deliver. Don’t the women here remember the time they really wanted a child? If there was no man to say, ‘I love you’, would you have got one?”

Makatiani said the project would also foster relations between the area’s different communities and boost trade with urban centres like Vihiga, Kisumu, Busia, Bungoma and Nandi counties, and consequently boost micro finance.

But even before the actual building began, the attendant changes of urbanisation realready being felt.

“Because of the upcoming market, the value of land has already gone up, and the socio-economic status of the people will change drastically,” Vincent M’muka, a businessman at the market said. A supporter of the new market, M’muka added although the market has a rich heritage, it was seriously run down.

Kakamega Governor Wycliffe Oparanya, who was the chief guest, had to beef up his security after rumours started doing the rounds that there would be trouble if he showed up. However, everything went smoothly.

Oparanya has blamed the delay in relocating the market on one of the MPs from the region, saying the MP opposed it on the grounds that the traders had not been given enough time to move, nore had they been offered an alternative site to conduct their business.

Governor Oparanya said, “Some people came to my office claiming ownership of the plots in question armed only with allotment letters, which allowed them to build temporary structures.”

RUN-DOWN MARKET

And according to local chief Charles Ligabo Mwayuli, many found the old, run-down market unsuitable for doing business, while the authorities were felt that building a new market would be greatly beneficial to the area.

Khayega Market has long been celebrated as the meeting point in the former Western Province and its environs, having served for years as a shopping haven.

According to Governor Oparanya, due to its popularity, more land will be required for further development.

Traders and shoppers flock to the market, also known a meat market, to buy fresh produce, while others to there to transactwholesale or retail businesses.

The market specialises in food, and has slaughter houses, with more than 30 butcheries selling hundreds of kilos of meat daily, including to schools and the many neighbouring institutions.

“With the new development, the market will be cleaner and more presentable, and will attract more visitors,” Oparanya said.

He added that the shops that will be built to replace the buildings that were demolished will have a proper drainage system, water and electricity, upgraded fire and security systems, and toilets that are easily accessible to people with disabilities.

The market, also known for traditional delicacies such as dried and conserved mushrooms, will now have modern stalls and food halls as opposed to the open, flea market system that has been used for decades.

In the new set-up, customers will enjoy hassle-free shopping even during the rainy season, which is a challenge now.

A few residents criticised the upcoming changes, saying the history of the area would be forever lost. However, their attempts to stop the demolitions failed after they were overruled by the court.

Also concerned were sportsmen, who have raised concern regarding the proposed move by the county government to re-locate second-hand clothes traders and hawkers to the playing field to make way for the new market.

Speaking on behalf of the residents, Moses Mulyolo, said the field should be upgraded using devolved funds and not be interfered with in the suggested manner.

And sports promoter George Muruli said the area’s urbanisation should not interfere ­­­the production of the future football stars.