Faking your way to fuller and thicker eyebrows

Kangai Mwiti, the make-up artist and the face behind Bellesa Africa . Photo/COURTESY

What you need to know:

  • After it has settled in, your brows post microblading have you rolling out of bed without having to worry if you left them on the pillow.
  • It is likely to cost you anything from Sh7,000 to Sh15,000 or more per session. In hindsight, I suspect this is why all the red carpet beauties seem to have such effortless full brows!

As a rule I do not allow anything that cuts or pierces anywhere close to my skin. Especially if it is on my face. I almost changed this rule when I researched microblading, right down to the microblader, I wanted to do my eyebrows.

Google, of course, begun prompting me on all this microblading. The advantage of that is this article. YouTube and online fashion magazines very sharply turned me to warnings. Ten Things You Should Know Before You Try Microblading. Why I Will Never Try Microblading. Again. What They Never Tell You About Microblading. Naturally, I immersed myself in that. By the time that was done, microblading was a video on YouTube. Not something to consider.

Microblading is a process requiring a great deal of research before it is done. You would need to do a lot of homework to find someone who is skilled at it, preferably not so out of your way because you will need top ups.  More on that later.

Find someone who is well trained and certified, and before you get any work done, be sure to ask for proof of previous work. Primarily because microblading is the act of creating fine fake hairs with a needle and ink to embed it, which, of course is what tattooing is.

The consultation should tell you how to prepare your skin before your session, and how to take care of it after. It is very critical that you have this initial consultation. It is not one of those beauty rules to be ignored. The consultation will let you know the shape of your eyebrows, which colour of ink to use and the condition of your skin.

Having a consultation does not mean you have to get the procedure. What it does is help you establish a rapport with someone you will be spending hours of your life with.

You want to know what the technique is, what it looks like. I have seen before and after pictures on Facebook dating back to 2014. Different skin tones, complexions, age, some with minimal hair to the point of alopecia, others with half grown brows.

After it has settled in, your brows post microblading have you rolling out of bed without having to worry if you left them on the pillow. It is likely to cost you anything from Sh7,000 to Sh15,000 or more per session. In hindsight, I suspect this is why all the red carpet beauties seem to have such effortless full brows!

A special pen with a fine razor tip is used to slice brushstrokes on existing brows. They look like little feathery hairs. If you want to fill in your brows, shape and define them or have them look fuller, this is something you can try. It lasts anything from 6 to 12 months. Some say 2 years.

One of the untold secrets about microblading is it does not last as long on African skin. It favours Caucasian skin. African skin leans towards being oily. Though not for everyone. If you have dry skin, it holds the ink longer. Africans need to have more frequent follow up sessions for a more long term effect even though this is a semi-permanent procedure. Oily skin has more sebum which breaks down the pigment much faster.

There are different methods artists will use, and believe me, this is an art. Embrowdery was one of the first. Epibrow is a kind of skilled freehand. The artist does not follow any particular style. Instead they base the strokes on the natural formation of your brow hairs. PhiBrows is mathematical. Using the golden ration, your ideal brows are created in proportion to your face and it’s natural measurements. It is the perfectionist’s version of the Epibrow.

Techniques vary as well. Someone might have their own style and create a signature brow. Ombre allows for two colours blended into a fuller brow moving from lighter to darker. Soft hair strokes are the making of extremely fine hairs for those who have little hair.

Powder technique fills in gaps and works for those who do not want to build their brow from scratch, merely enhance it. This is just superficial. Microblading is a big decision because it will be written all over your face for a long time to come.