Why it makes sense to have a signature scent

Many people do not have one, but a collection of perfumes inspired by what they have been told. PHOTO | FILE

What you need to know:

  • Kenyans’ relationship with scents is mostly functional, conservative and driven by popular recommendations.
  • Locally, perfume stores only lean towards similar ranges like radio stations who rarely shuffle their playlists. I searched for Black Orchid, Tom Ford for two years post-launch eventually nagging friends and family to fetch me a bottle.
  • On the other hand, established fashion houses traditionally consider perfumes an all year round money-maker.  They are now designing fragrances with the wardrobe fragrance habit in mind.

One Saturday in a beauty store that was growing busier, next to the perfume shelf, I was privy to illuminating conversations. A pair of grown men hovered, asked the attendant, “Do you have this in the blue box?” She, like I, was baffled. No they didn’t. The two gentlemen discuss boxes. Familiar with a scent whose name neither knows.

They exit. A gaggle of 20-somethings walk in. They huddle over the perfume section. “Do you have this in another scent?” One asks.  Yes. I rolled my eyes too. There is a flurry of spritzing and a lovely, odd, sweet fusion. They exit. This replays severally. No purchases are made.

It suddenly becomes clear. No one understands perfume. Not the buyers and certainly not the attendants who have no clue how to guide or recommend.

Kenyans’ relationship with scents is mostly functional, conservative and driven by popular recommendations. Fragrances of the World 2016, 32nd edition reflects changes in perfumery. It lists the five top selling perfumes in the world as 3 Chanel scents - No. 5, Coco Mademoiselle and Eau Tendre, and Light Blue by Dolce & Gabbana. Estee Lauder’s Beautiful dropped off the top, replaced by Flowerbomb in 2014 then Daisy in 2015. Men’s top selling scents were Acqua di Gio and Bleu de Chanel. Other are Gucci Guilty, Polo Red, The One and Armani Code.

Locally, perfume stores only lean towards similar ranges like radio stations who rarely shuffle their playlists. I searched for Black Orchid, Tom Ford for two years post-launch eventually nagging friends and family to fetch me a bottle.

This predictable stock is a blessing and curse. Advertising and marketing fragrances, says Bloomberg, costs $800m and the message is not landing. Buyers prefer scents with a memory and history attached. Not unless a campaign has been so aggressive or persistent enough to have sunk into the psyche. Even then it will be purchased in addition to.

PERSONAL AFFAIR

Fragrance habits of Millennials show that wardrobe fragrances, instead of signature scents, have become a thing.

In my 20s, I experimented with every scent, following fragrances like a rabid wolf on the hunt. It is a normal response to scent introduction and self-discovery.

On the other hand, established fashion houses traditionally consider perfumes an all year round money-maker.  They are now designing fragrances with the wardrobe fragrance habit in mind.

In their case, however, it is a luxury strategy focusing on haute couture or collection perfumery for Chanel, Dior, Givenchy and Armani. They release a collection of scents annually rather than individual commercial scents to be bought as a set to mix and blended to suit the user.

Collection fragrances aka prestige scents are made using a range of ingredients carefully sourced akin to haute couture fabrics. Perfumers have more freedom in fragrance creation. Scents are sold exclusively. Limited availability makes them more appealing.

Locally, the closest thing to bespoke scents are micro businesses designing a selection of essential oils and/or perfume sticks in unique flavours.

Commercial perfumes are experiencing a marketing shift where perfume lovers appreciate a personal touch, individuality and scents expressing their identity. Prestige perfumes are tailored to fit and tried on the skin like bespoke attire prior to purchase.

You can shop online. Sites with questionnaires decipher personality and ship the ‘perfect’ fragrance. To  appeal to Millennials, brands use YouTube, Instagram and Facebook to engage a demographic said to wear multiple fragrances, who research before buying and are likely to shop online.

To give you a sense just how deep this goes, Chanel is designing a younger sister to No. 5, the best selling perfume of all time. A nuanced Chanel No. 5 L’Eau for the young ones who don’t relate to it’s history or legacy.

Selecting perfume is deeply personal. Attendants who merely spritz and ask “do you like it?” or “It smells nice, doesn’t it?” cost a business money. Clients either know what they want in which case they come to buy, or are  absolutely clueless and only have a whiff of insight to go with.

The latter are not sure how much of a commitment to the unknown they are willing to make. That being said, a perfume purchase gone wrong can always be regifted, spritzed in the home or sheets or if you can negotiate it, replaced with a more beloved substitute. You really can’t be too logical about perfume.