Delights from the Holy Land

East of the Mediterranean Sea is a trans-continental area labelled by historians and geographers as the Levant; a melting pot of cultures from North Africa, West Asia and the Mediterranean. As is expected with any such cultural mix, the cuisine of the region is infinitely rich, offering a wealth of experiences for the keen foodie. My most recent travels took me to Israel, whose food scene is a large beneficiary of this cross cultural interaction made even more abounding by the numerous Jewish diaspora communities which immigrated there after the formation of the state. Among them are the Ashkenazi Jews (from East and Central Europe) and Ethiopian Jewish communities, who all brought with them a taste of the cooking from their respective former countries.

Central to Israeli cuisine is a variety of Mediterranean ingredients including olives, wheat, eggplants, tomatoes, chickpeas and more in their various permutations varying from salads to dressings, dips, breads and coatings. Chicken is the most popular meat choice and bread is never too far from the table. Both Jerusalem the capital city and the economic hub Tel Aviv are littered with food service stores of different configurations from street kiosks to fine dining restaurants. You could literally spit from anywhere and your projectile is bound to land on a restaurant. My favourite food pick from Tel Aviv is a paradox considering it’s a dish said to have been invented in the streets of Jerusalem. A mishmash of lamb bits and chicken offal including livers, spleen and hearts seasoned with mixed herbs, onion and garlic, the Jerusalem Mix Grill may sound a bit nauseating but it tasted better than anything I have had in yonks! It was served in a tin plate that has seen better days and came topped with cream and chargrilled vegetables subduing the spicy, greasy meat with a smoky flavour. Located in the centre of Carmel Market (Shuk HaCarmel) somewhere between some dumpsters and a market delivery point, Bar Ochel does not cater for those seeking a ritzy dining experience. The space is tiny and loud and the young staffers work fast and maniacally with second long breaks to shoot down tequila and arak (liquorice flavoured alcohol) after which they tug at a bell rope as some sort of self-congratulatory expression. That said, I thoroughly enjoyed the buzz and my meal, which was accompanied by a gargantuan basket of bread and chimichurri, pesto and schug (Yemeni chilli) sauces. Can’t say the same for my poor mother who revelled in her chicken salad but was mortified by the surrounding chaos.

My best Jerusalem food adventure involved a much calmer bazaar. The world famous Machane Yehuda Market (home of the Jerusalem Mix Grill) is among the city’s top tourist attractions and is home to hundreds of vendor stalls selling everything from fresh fruits to cheap trinkets and knock off underwear brands. On the recommendation of one of the proprietors of the Lebanese owned Manou ba Shouk on the market’s main street, I ordered the vegetarian (if you’d believe it) egg dish known as shakshuka. This Tunisian innovation features eggs poached in herbed tomato sauce atop onion fried peppers, eggplant and feta cheese served in a miniature cast iron skillet. Shakshuka is a warming vegetable ragout that would be perfect for cold evenings under a fleece on the couch. As with Manou ba Shouk, it will be served in most places with a homemade bread to soak up any remaining wetness, making for a rather filling meal.

The Holy Land might provide all these wonderful offerings but one must note that it is not without a price, and a dear one at that. Street lunch with just one course and one bottle of the local lager; Goldstar, will cost you an average of between Sh2,100 - Sh2,400. Double that if you intend to eat the same thing at a slightly upscale restaurant. It’s a good thing most establishments serve massive portions.