Island life on Lake Baringo

Island camp Lake Baringo. PHOTO| RUPI MANGAT

What you need to know:

  • The sail from Kampi ya Samaki on the mainland to Island Camp on the lake’s largest island – Ol Kokwa – is filled with Great cormorants, African darters and fairytale-like White terns that we’re told are migrating by.

  • Hopping on to the island paradise that’s now actually in three parts thanks to the phenomenal water increase between 2010 and 2014, is like stepping into a dream world. Gibralter Rock across Ol Kokwa is awash in deep copper-red. The vertical rock outcrop shows marks of the lake level going down. But the two end bits of the rock island still look like they are tiny islets on their own.

The first stunning sight upon setting sail on Lake Baringo is a Goliath heron wading in the marshes. It’s the world’s largest heron, this one is out hunting. We haven’t even had to search for it. With a beautiful lake that’s dazzling jade-green in the midday sun, it’s a world of superlatives. Everything is stunning.

Next on the list is a Verraux’s eagle owl perched high on a shady tree. It is Africa’s largest owl. With its droopy pink eyelids that makes it easy for anyone to identify it, it opens its huge round eyes just to keep watch on us. Life’s good for this apex predator – there’s plenty of food for it to hunt around the lake.

I’m with Peter Leweri, the boat captain at Island Camp on Ol Kokwa Island inside Lake Baringo.

Colour intensity

The sail from Kampi ya Samaki on the mainland to Island Camp on the lake’s largest island – Ol Kokwa – is filled with Great cormorants, African darters and fairytale-like White terns that we’re told are migrating by.

Hopping on to the island paradise that’s now actually in three parts thanks to the phenomenal water increase between 2010 and 2014, is like stepping into a dream world. Gibralter Rock across Ol Kokwa is awash in deep copper-red. The vertical rock outcrop shows marks of the lake level going down. But the two end bits of the rock island still look like they are tiny islets on their own.

“The lake’s at a nice, sustainable level now,” says Dr Bonnie Dunbar of Island Camp, who has been monitoring the lake for some years.

It’s good for the tilapia and a bonanza for the local Il Chamus (popularly called Njemps) fisherman on the island.

But the high waters of the lake have brought an unusual challenge for the fishermen who, in their lifetime, haven’t seen anything like this. They can’t make their sailing rafts – the uniquely crafted Ilkadich – from the lightweight poles of the ambatch tree Aeschynomena elaphroxylon that grows on the marshes around the lakeshore. For the last six months, the island’s fishermen have to hire boats from the mainland to go fishing.

The intensity of light and colour is amazing on the island. The night sky sparkles with stars and planets while the night breeze carries sounds of the hippos and owls.

At first light, a palette of pinks and gold-orange burnishes the horizon announcing sunrise. Minutes later, the golden orb appears from behind Laikipia Plateau.

Fabulous catch

Leweri is at hand to sail us around the island. Submerged trees in the water pose as natural sculptures adorned with hundreds of Red-rumped swallows on the dry branches. “They are migratory,” he tells. Here to escape the cold northern winter, these fast flying birds scoop on insects in mid-air. A trio of the nobly-attired African fish eagle enjoys the sun perched on the submerged trees. Leweri throws the fish but they are so well fed that at first they ignore him. On the second throw, the African fish eagle lifts and scoops the fish from the water surface with outstretched talons and wings. It’s a picture perfect shot.

Suddenly, a crocodile appears, swimming leisurely and we round the bend to the furthest end of the island. The water level is going down.

The previous year, the hot springs at the end of the island were submerged – now we can see them, white hot steam drifting upwards. Splashes of red aloes and pink-flowered desert rose break the monotony of bare rocks.

There are only a few kadishes asail on the lake looking worn and withered, some left to dry on the rocky shores.

At the village, Francis Lekae steps off the motor-boat and returns with his catch for the day – tilapia and catfish. It’s been a good morning for him with a tally of 40.

Back at the luxury island camp, the island menu is freshly-bought tilapia. Baringo’s tilapia is healthy – high in omega-3 which is the good fat for the body. Meanwhile, the resident pair of Spotted-eagle owls on the huge acacia tree by the restaurant is in deep sleep announcing an afternoon siesta for the rest.