On the trail of lions

We reach the area with the help of the GPS, walking through dense green toothbrush bush to a place where a pride of lions devoured an elephant a few days ago.

All that’s left of the animal is the lower jaw and the skin. Shivani collects the lion scat to identify what the lions fed on, as in whether it was livestock or wild animals – it’s important to collect all sorts of data to piece together the behaviour of the wild cats.

It will eventually make management plans to protect the cats easier and also provide hard evidence that the cats are around.

There’s no luck this morning with the cats, but there are dikdiks everywhere. Earlier, we spotted a pair of martial eagles perched on a tree, making for a super picture.

Our stomachs are rumbling. At this point, an enormous rock appears. “We have to climb that for breakfast,” announces the young Kenyan scientist.

From high on the vantage point, the scenery is surreal. The Ewaso Nyiro appears like a mirage in the distance. The land is sparsely dotted with thorn trees. In the early morn, we hear the tinkle of goat bells coming to the river to drink.

Driving back to base after breakfast on the rocks, we meet Daniel Letoiye, manager of West Gate, who was born not far from where we are standing.

The community is excited by Shivani’s spotting the pride of lions and with the pictures she has taken. Letoiye wants the digital photographs blown up for all to see.

It has created momentum to expand the conservancy for wildlife. Chatting by the exclusive up-market tented camp on the conservancy, Letoiye spots a hyena spoor. He’s working on a Masters degree on hyenas. I ask him why hyenas?

“You know, nobody likes them here. Yet they are very important for the ecosystem to function. So that’s why l chose them as my subject.”

“We’re excited about the lion research,” chips in Lekuraiyo. “We want to encourage more research here because the wildlife is our heritage and we want to see it survive. The research will help us mark the way forward.”

On our way out, we stop by Roosevelt, the big bull elephant in the conservancy.

There are dikdiks everywhere, tiny and agile, perfectly suited to the arid land – there’s plenty to browse on because nobody can reach so low for the tender shoots like them.

Fact File
Stay at the West Gate conservancy. There’s a camping ground but you must carry water. If money’s not a problem, check in at the little exclusive camp on the hill. It’s great country for walking.

Carry some form of identification as the patrol cars outside the game area can stop you at any time for a spot check on “aliens”.