CENTRESTAGE: The cold world of male models

In this photograph taken on November 9, 2012 a male model presents a creation by Indonesian designer Deden Siswanto during the Jakarta Fashion Week in the capital city of Jakarta. AFP PHOTO / ROMEO GACAD

What you need to know:

  • Male models face difficult time finding jobs.
  • Strict standards of height and build make it extremely hard being a male model.
  • Male models also struggle with body issues, eating disorders and depression

Female models often complain of poor pay, lack of payments and exploitation. But their male counterparts go through worse as they tell Doreen Wamugunda.

There is a running joke in Nairobi that if you throw something from any point in the CBD you are likely to hit a photographer, a social media influencer or a model. When it comes to models, the butt of the joke is, almost always, young women.
Male models are often left out of the conversation. Being a male model is an uncommon career choice. In fact, male models only started appearing in fashion campaigns at the beginning of the 21st Century. Female models, on the other hand, have been around for almost half a century.

CAN'T CATCH A BREAK
Even though the fashion industry is becoming more receptive, male models still never seem to catch a break. Case in point, many people know Naomi Campbell and Iman but few people, have ever heard of David Gandy or Sean O’Pry, two of the most successful male models globally. Additionally, the four largest pageants in the world are for women.
In Kenya, the situation is the same. Job opportunities may be offered equally but male models are always short-changed. Simon Mwai, a cinematographer, actor, and part-time model had a successful streak on the runway for four years. He worked with major brands and fashion designers but most jobs were still reserved for women.

Simon Mwai, a cinematographer, actor, and part-time model. PHOTO| COURTESY


“I would be called for a show where they needed twenty female models but only four male models,” he says.

Male models working independently without signing to a modelling agency can spend months waiting for a work-related phone call. They have to be patient, especially at the beginning of their careers when jobs are few and far apart.

Mwai took a break in 2016. He hopes to make a big comeback very soon.

“The plan is to do new photo shoots, update my portfolio and send it to agencies which are not Nairobi-based,” he said.

NOT ENOUGH OPPORTUNITIES

Edward Nyanaro, a talent manager at 254 Talent Management Limited, feels that fashion designers may not be doing enough to create opportunities for male models in the industry.

Edward Nyanaro, a talent manager at 254 Talent Management Limited, and also model. PHOTO| COURTESY

“We have more designers who are doing female designs than male designs,” he says.

Nyanaro stepped off the runway for good when he started to manage models who were better suited for the same jobs.

“I had to forfeit runway because I am 5’9”, yet I was managing taller models. Every audition I went to, manze, I would be dwarfed. I could walk the runway but you need to know when to quit,” says Nyanaro.

Male models are picked using strict guidelines. To be successful, they are expected to meet the international standards of a 6’1”/6’2” height and a petite frame. The slightest hint of belly fat, even with great physique, will lock you out.

“Jewellery designers, especially, need the men to be shirtless. You cannot show up with a potbelly, so the gym is a good investment. Sometimes, I scout for models in the gym,” Nyanaro adds.

LITTLE TO NO HELP

Like female models, male models also struggle with body issues, eating disorders and depression. However, little to no help is offered to male models, said Hussein, Kenya’s representative to Mr Africa International 2019. He was weight-shamed during the competition.

Kenya’s representative to Mr Africa International 2019, Said Hussein. PHOTO| COURTESY

“I was depressed before the competition started. People called me names because of my weight. I was a laughing stock,” Hussein says.

Jo Kisila, a career DJ and part-time model shares Hussein’s sentiments. He believes that society is at times deluded that models are unintelligent humans living glamorous lives.

“People think that modelling is just about sitting and smiling and taking pictures, but modelling is also about mental strength, confidence, and personality.

More than often, you go through so much and without character you can break down or lose it,” says Kisila.

Deejay and part-time model, Jo Kisila. PHOTO| COURTESY

The pay gap between the genders is staggering. On the global scale, supermodels earn four times what is paid to the highest-paid male model. To add insult to injury, successful female models are swarmed with lucrative endorsements from high-end brands while their male counterparts are hardly memorable beyond the runway.

Without side-hustles, it is extremely difficult for a model to survive in the industry. Professionals in the modelling industry can be very shifty when the conversation about paying models comes up. In 2018, models, creatives, and well-meaning Kenyans rallied under the hashtag, #PayModelsKE to reveal how models were either grossly owed, underpaid or adequately paid in “exposure”.

The hashtag, though popular, yielded little effort. The reason? The message was directed to the wrong party.

“People did not understand who was being attacked. Who was being asked to pay? This hashtag was actually meant for advertising agencies because, we, as modelling agencies, do not pay the models and companies do not pay us directly,” Nyanaro says.

One unique difference between male and female models is the age factor. Even though modelling gigs might be fewer for them, male models have a higher chance of outlasting female models. Most successful male models have been in the industry for over a decade.

Female models do not have this advantage since fashion designers prefer young women aged between 16 and 22.

“It is an advantage for male models. They only need to be consistent and take care of their bodies. For female models, it takes a lot of effort to bounce back especially after they have had children and their bodies have changed,” Nyanaro says.

In the world of modelling, the scales will probably always be tipped in favour of female models.

Male models, however, refuse to be ignored and have relentlessly survived. With better representation and equal opportunities, perhaps male models will make greater strides on global runways. As Jo Kisila puts it, “Models are more than just mannequins.”