Are ‘natural flavours’ really natural?

Q: I heard that “natural flavours” added to flavoured seltzer water are not natural, because of a loophole in the regulations covering additives. Is that true?

A: Government regulations define natural flavours as those that derive their aroma or flavour chemicals from plant or animal sources, including fruit, meat, fish, spices, herbs, roots, leaves, buds or bark that are distilled, fermented or otherwise manipulated in a lab. This distinguishes them from artificial flavours, which use man-made chemicals to give a product its particular flavour or aroma.

The loophole, as it were, is that for nonorganic foods, the regulations do not restrict the dozens of other ingredients like preservatives and solvents that can go into a so-called natural flavour. Ultimately, because of the wide variety of ingredients that typically go into “natural” flavourings, “there does not seem to be much of a difference between natural and artificial flavours,” said David Andrews, a scientist at the Environmental Working Group, a research and advocacy organisation.

While food processors must list all of the ingredients on a food label, flavour manufacturers do not have to disclose their ingredients. They can add synthetic solvents, preservatives, emulsifiers, carriers and other additives to a flavour that qualifies as natural under current regulations.

Natural flavours allowed for use in certified organic foods are subject to a different, far more restrictive set of regulations. They cannot contain a long list of ingredients, including synthetic solvents, carriers and emulsifiers or artificial preservatives, said Gwendolyn Wyard, the Organic Trade Association’s vice president of regulatory and technical affairs.

They must use non-petroleum-based solvents, cannot be irradiated and cannot use flavour extracts derived from genetically engineered crops.

Flavours labelled “organic flavours” or “organic natural flavours” are even more strictly regulated, consisting almost entirely of organic ingredients; the latter may contain a small amount of natural flavour as well.

Some food safety advocates recommend people with food allergies or dietary restrictions avoid food flavourings because the ingredients are not disclosed, but that is a difficult task. Food manufacturers add them to a surprising number of basic items, not just highly processed foods like candy, granola bars and frozen dinners but also to some cold cereals, flavoured yogurts, canned soups and spaghetti sauces, and even to some apple sauces and ice creams (including Breyers Natural Vanilla).