Adventures on the lake

Lake Victoria Safari Village, on the shores of Winam Gulf, an extension of Lake Victoria on the north-eastern side. PHOTO | RUPI MANGAT

What you need to know:

  • I make a mental note to explore more of the hills in search of these sacred groves that seem similar to the sacred “Kaya” forest groves of the Mijikenda at the coast.
  • The wind begins to whip up the waves making the smooth ride really choppy. Plans to sail to the twin islands of Mbasa – so full of monitor lizards and rich in birdlife – are abandoned.

Lights flicker in the dark as lanterns appear on the lake.

The fishermen spread their nets which are attached to the floating lanterns, whose light will lure the tiny omena into the nets. We’re standing on the only lighthouse at Lake Victoria Safari Village, on the shores of Winam Gulf, an extension of Lake Victoria on the north-eastern side. The lights increase and fill the horizon, while the sky sparkles with constellations, with the Scorpius unfurling its tail in the dark night. It’s a beautiful night with a breeze, but for the fishermen it’s a hard life having to battle the waves and the winds.

Sleeping in the lighthouse, built by Odd Bredo, a structural engineer who used a toy model for proportions, is amazing. In the morning, there is no beach by the lighthouse. In the last few years on the west coast, the lake levels have risen, submerging the beach and the base of the lighthouse.

Young students from the nearby university take a break to enjoy a swim in the lake and marvel at the iconic lighthouse. We leave them behind and take a speedboat to Sindo at the far end of the gulf, where Bredo wants to show us the volcanic outcrop of the Gembe Hills. Few fishermen are out now, but the rural homesteads by the shoreline keep us engaged. An anchored boat bobs on the lake full of short-tailed cormorants and greater cormorants perched on it.

“That is the volcano,” Bredo says, pointing to the high peaks of the Gembe Hills and further the Gwassi Hills, as we near the town of Sindo that is 18 kilometres from Mbita Point by road. He fishes out the postcard that clearly shows the formation of the crater on Gembe – an almost 360-degree circle, but with a quarter of it in the lake.

SPECTACULAR SUNSETS

“This means that there is lava on the lake bed,” states our captain.

These hills were at one time forested and a research paper from 1972 reveals that the forests used to be sacred and protected and they were called gumbas in Dholuo. Many of the hills then boasted luxuriant woodlands of fig trees and other large trees that provided timber for local canoe manufacture. Now the trees are gone and timber is brought in from Uganda. I make a mental note to explore more of the hills in search of these sacred groves that seem similar to the sacred “Kaya” forest groves of the Mijikenda at the coast.

The wind begins to whip up the waves making the smooth ride really choppy. Plans to sail to the twin islands of Mbasa – so full of monitor lizards and rich in birdlife – are abandoned.

Back at the Safari village, the sun begins to set over Rusinga Island. One of the most spectacular sunsets happens on 23rd December when the sun sets between the twin islands of Mbasa – and I’ve seen that beautiful sight before. It then travels back to Rusinga and on 23rd June, sits on the peak of Rusinga and then turns towards Mbasa Island.

In the glow of the sun, there’s a movement in the water. Tiny faces bob out playfully slipping in and out of the water. It’s a family of white-necked spotted otters – a mother with her brood. We watch enchanted.

At one time these beautiful creatures were common in the lake. Now they are increasingly rare, caught in the fishermen’s nets or poisoned, simply to stop the otters from competing for the fish. But in the safety of the rocks around the lighthouse, one family has taken residence. We toast to the day and keep a watch for Janyiero, the laughing god of the Luo, whose statue welcomes guests to Lake Victoria Safari Village.

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Intriguing islands

The many islands of Lake Victoria are a must-visit for anyone who loves a holiday surrounded by water. Don’t forget to cruise right to the Ugandan border. Beyond the lake, tourists can also take a trip to the Ruma National Park, which is the only home to the rare roan antelope (there are fewer than 50 left).

The park is just 30 minutes away from Mbita. If you fancy the idea of lighthouse accommodation, be sure to book the one and only luxurious room in the lighthouse at the Lake Victoria Safari Village (www.safarikenya.net), but if you miss it, you can always stay at the ensuite bandas that dot the garden. There is also a site for those who prefer camping.