The skull caves of Vuria

A view of Tsavo West National Park seen from the heights of Vuria, part of the Taita Hills. PHOTO | RUPI MANGAT

What you need to know:

  • The last skull burial, according to Mzee Austin Mwachania, happened in 1930.
  • It was always the respected men like the medicine men, the wealthy, the hunters – in other words those who contributed to the society – whose skulls were stored.
  • A few days after a body’s burial, the skull was removed amidst a ceremony and buried in the caves.
  • The caves were sacred and families went to tell their ancestors of their troubles and ask for guidance.

The plan is to enjoy the indigenous forest of Vuria. I have no intention of puffing up to the peak, which is the highest of the Taita Hills and the highest point at the Coast, reaching 2,228 metres (7,310 ft).

My friends and I are on a mission to search for the legendary skull caves of the Taita people, but we lose the group in the forest. Trying to find it, we’re on the peak a few hours later, looking at the plains below.

The following day, I’m back at the base of Vuria and this time with Hendrison Mwameso, a guide with Dawida Biodiversity Conservation group (DABICO) we ask around for the historical caves.

It’s Murphy’s law. The previous day we reached the peak searching for one. Cosmus Mghanga, a nest trekker with the Taita apalis team, points to a huge fig tree near the road. “The cave is in there,” he says.

Mwameso and I follow the narrow nondescript path through the bushes with the village kids in tow.

Skulls of respected men in Vuria. PHOTO | RUPI MANGAT

Suddenly we’re peering in a dark cave hidden by the tree. Littered on the ground inside are the barely visible skulls. It takes a few minutes for the eye to adjust to see deeper in the low ceilinged rock cave with the white, bare skulls of the ancestors of the Taita. We count at least 50.

Stepping back in the sunlight, we see a lot more skulls lying in the dense leaf litter outside the cave. We’re told a deranged woman threw them out of the cave. In any case, it’s against tradition to pick or disturb the skulls.

SKULL CAVE

A passer-by tells us of another skull cave, but it’s a kilometre up in the mountain. With time on our hands we walk through rural homesteads and ask villagers for the path. We meet Mzee Austin Mwachania hurrying down the hill.

On hearing that we’re looking for the skull cave, he replies with enthusiasm, “My family cave is up there and there are others spread round the hill. Follow the path up to those rocks,” he points, and then gives a little brief about the custom of storing the skulls in caves.

The last skull burial, according to Mwachania, happened in 1930. It was always the respected men like the medicine men, the wealthy, the hunters – in other words those who contributed to the society – whose skulls were stored.

A few days after a body’s burial, the skull was removed amidst a ceremony and buried in the caves. The caves were sacred and families went to tell their ancestors of their troubles and ask for guidance.

The skull cave hidden in Vuria. PHOTO | RUPI MANGAT

A little while later we meet Mzee Bernard Kisochi who tells more. “The practice reduced after World War 1 because many Taita men fought and died in it. Those who returned did not want to continue with it.”

Further up on the hill we meet with Mzee Gaspar tending to his farm by the homestead near the cave. He leads us up to the cave on a steep slope. It’s empty! This time, a mad man threw the skulls down the deep ravine.

A few days later Mwameso and I head to another side of Vuria. The steep slope through the homesteads leads us up to stunning rocks covered with moss and lichen from where the plains of Tsavo West National Park are spread green.

A thick line of green etches the flow of Tsavo River to join Athi in Tsavo East National Park and become the Galana to flow into the Indian Ocean north of Malindi.

Walking back, we stop in a fighi, a tiny grove of a scared forest. Once venerated by the community, it’s beautiful with trees rarely seen now, sculpted with the passage of time.

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WHEN IN VURIA

Contact Dawida Biodiversity Conservation group (DABICO) Resource Centre for a guide.

It’s cheap and cheerful – Sh250 to camp or if you’re lucky, grab one of the two permanent tents.

There’s a cold shower and a kitchen to cook.

Book through Nature Kenya www.naturekenya.org.