How livestock stolen in north Kenya ends up on your plate

A herder's decorated gun. CHEBOITE KIGEN | NATION

The cloud of dust raised by thousands of hooves trampling the dry ground at Nginyang’ market, under the Tugen hills, is visible from afar. Some describe the hills are as the most dangerous areas for cattle and goat herders in Baringo.

About two dozen market orderlies continuously wipe their sweat-drenched faces as the bleat of a fresh herd of goats they are trying to control rend the air. Occasionally, one escapes from the herd as the counting proceeds.

The rest follow suit. It will take another five minutes before they are herded together for counting.

Meanwhile, the impatient traders, who have driven their herds the whole night to make it to the market, lose their cool; tempers flare.

“These are not 300; start again!” a trader sitting under a tree within earshot shouts at the top of his voice.

“If you are not sure, you can count them yourself,” one of the orderlies doing the counting responds. Their voices can barely be heard above the endless bleating and chaos.

It seems as if some of the goats do not want to be driven into a pen where a Somali trader stands at the end of the line. “This is probably the last time they will eat grass. Once they enter that truck, they become meat,” he thundered as we sought his audience.

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Nginyang’, Kenya’s second largest animal market, is also arguably one that has also contributed to the greatest bloodshed among the pastoralist communists. Just two months ago, members of the Tugen community armed with AK 47 rifles stopped a lorry ferrying goats at gunpoint just next to a police station near the market.

“They took over 300 goats, claiming that we had bought their stolen animals,” Mr Alex Kiprop, a herder, recalls.

It was a Monday and market day at Nginyang’, the only day of the week the dull rural centre comes alive. Depending on who you ask, the Nginyang’ livestock market could be in Baringo East or East Pokot.

Baringo is predominantly occupied by the Tugen, the Pokot and the Ilchamus, a Maa speaking people living to the south and southeast of Lake Baringo. These communities, as well as those surrounding them, have their own livestock markets, which feed Nginyang’, hence its significance to the pastoralist communities in the central Rift Valley.

Amainyan market on the border of Samburu and Baringo operates on Tuesdays, Koloa market in the South on Thursdays, and Barwesa market on Fridays. A good proportion of the livestock sold in these markets ends up in Nginyang’ from where it is sold to brokers from big urban centres.

Even the annual Kimalel goat auction gets its animals from here.

So significant is the market that it is not just a place for trading livestock, but also a venue for crucial political and peace meetings, which, for decades have been held under a conspicuous Oron tree, whose sagging branches overlook the market.

And there is a reason for that, apart from the fact that chevon (adult goat meat) from the area is considered top choice by meat lovers with a taste for roast ribs.

Herders and cattle. CHEBOITE KIGEN | NATION